Rotorua & Thermal Area

Thursday 2nd December. It is still a challenge for us to accept that it is December, Christmas is being talked about and yet we are spending a lot of our time in shorts and t-shirts. We have been kept updated on the UK weather where there is apparently about a foot of snow in the Crawley/Horsham area and considerably more in Yorkshire. I suspect the usual chaos that snow brings will be the order of the day.

We were away by about nine and headed off on the short distance to Taupo, a pretty and lively town overlooking Acacia Bay on the lake itself. We had a look around before heading out on Highway Five to the Aratiatia Dam where the there are boat rides to view the dam and the Huka Falls. Unfortunately the next (first?) of these was at 12.30 and it was only just 10.00, so we abandoned that idea. The dam sluices are opened to allow power generation several times a day and they had just been opened creating spectacular rapids below the dam.

The sluices were closed just after 10.30 and the water steadily subsided (taking a surprising amount of time) until it left quite a tranquil flow.

Next we headed off on a circular route back to Huka Falls, though this entailed an unplanned re-visit of Taupo so we popped in for coffee in a ‘creative cafe’ where you could paint pottery and buy beads..... we stuck with the coffee.
The Huka Falls are on the Waikato River and here it narrows to 15m wide and is 10m deep. The volume and colour of the turbulent water is impressive and any ‘fallers’ would not survive long.

Then it was off up Highway 1 turning right along an unclassified road (with a surface this time!) where we found a tranquil lunch spot before heading on to the ‘Hidden Valley’ thermal area at Orakei Korako. This necessitated a short boat crossing across the Waikato River (which they also confusingly describe as ‘the lake’!) and then a wonderful walk (including about 1000 steps) to teh sound of large cricket type insects, through active geysers, sulphur formations, mud pools and hot springs.

The day was already hotting up and the added heat of the steaming springs and geysers contributed further to the sauna effect.

The formation of some of the earliest scarps are dated back to 131 AD, and while these look like volcanic lava flow they are formed from the emerging sulphur which can also be seen running down to the river’s edge.

After an hour and a quarter wander around the well formed board walks and paths (dire warnings not to deviate as the crust is very thin in places) it was time for the return ferry crossing which coincided with the landing of a local sea plane on the river; then it was ice cream time.
Next we headed on via Rotorua (visiting tomorrow) to Papamoa Beach near Tauranga.

In the evening we met with an ex-student and subsequent colleague (my first TCS Associate for those in the know), David Croft. We had not seen each other for some eight or nine years and he is now resident in New Zealand, married to a local and has a (nearly) one year old daughter. We had a great evening in a local restaurant, catching up and generally chatting. We plan to meet up again on Saturday for a walk round Mount Maunganui when we will also meet his girls, Geri & Leila.

Friday

Laundry on the line by 0830, sun shining again, surf’s up!

We had a circular tour today, heading out for Rotorua via Tauranga and cutting through the minor roads through Oropi down to Te Pu and joining Lake Rotorua at its northern point before following the banks down to the town itself. As we approached Rotorua we saw rising steam to our right so turned in to a parking area – we had stumble across Kuirau Park, an open area of mud pools, hot springs and steam vents. We explored this before enjoying soaking our feet in a thermally heated (ie naturally thermally heated) foot pool.

We lunched here and then wandered into the city where we managed to get a little lost! Fortunately we had noted a large clothing shop so we could ask for directions back to the campervan before heading out of town along the east side of the lake and picking up Highway 30 which follows the shores of series of lakes making a very scenic drive.

Along this road we came across ‘Hell’s Gate’, another thermal area, this one being the only one owned by the Maoari. We enjoyed wandering around here and took the opportunity of bathing our feet in the mud pools – the mud is very fine and it is not like getting muddy feet in the garden, not least because it is at about 40 C!

The bubbling mud pools here were quite dramatic, and as we had found previously, the hot day coupled with the rising steam made for warm walk! The area also included a hot waterfall (40 C) and a mud volcano that erupts from time to time.

On departure we were rapidly on the lookout for iced coffees and found a suitable cafe a short way up the road – they were most welcome....

We then carried on heading east, skirting Kawerau and turning north to join the coast at Matata. It was then back along Kohioawa Beach, through Otamarakau and Te Puke and back to camp via the supermarket.

Whanganui River

Monday 29th we had another adjustment to our plan and drove to Whanganui as we had arranged to meet my other auntie there. The majority of the trip was on the main highway (little choice) so good progress was made. We arrived at Whanganui in good time so we headed a short way up the Whanganui River Road to the first view point and stood just where my dad must have stood some 20 years earlier when he took the picture of the Whanganui river valley that adorns his wall; one of those ‘strange’ moments when a tingle runs down your spine.

We then headed back to my Auntie Anne’s where we also met up with my cousin’s children and husband. Unfortunately my cousin Nikki was away on business, ironically in Wellington where we had just come from!

We had a pleasant evening including a tour of Whanganui and dinner with Anne and the children. Everybody had reasonably early starts the next day (school, work, us going canoeing) so nobody was keen to be up too late!

Tuesday saw us away by 0830 complete with packed lunch ready for our trip on the river. We followed our route of the previous day and then headed on up the Whanganui River Road through Atene, noting the board showing the river level in 1998, which was well above the road itself, and on to Koriniti to The Flying Fox where we were to join the river.

The Flying Fox is effectively a cable car which runs across the river to the house out of which the boating is run. Heather was not too keen on the concept when she saw it spanned 100ft above the river, but reality was far better than expectation and we crossed smoothly and sedately across the river to by met by our host John and his very friendly dog.

We had a chat and then it was down to the serious business of coffee and homemade blueberry muffins before the safety chat and discussion about the route and how to approach the ‘rapids’.
We then sorted our kit into waterproof bags and wandered down to the river where there was a quick paddling demonstration before ‘feet wet’ time and into the double kayak (we had originally planned on the Indian Canoe, but with a promised rising breeze John had decided against this).
We then had great fun paddling down river in glorious sunshine and rising temperatures (it probably made 30+) including one grounding, which entailed Mark getting out to refloat the boat, some very fast and exhilarating bits of water through the rocks, and several occasions where the water was turbulent enough to result in us getting water over the gunwhales and into the boat!

We stopped for lunch on a ‘beach’ and got partly dried out, though I’m not sure why we worried about the drying out bit! We provided the food but John had provided the making of fresh coffee compete with ‘plunger’ and lunch was very relaxed sitting in the sunshine, during which John appeared on the opposite bank and we had a quick chat by two-way radio.

After lunch we headed on through more rapids and presently John came and found us in his Jet Boat which he was testing out after some work, and made flattering remarks about our style, but then we were paying him for the privilege so we’d expect him to make such comments!
It was then onto our final end point after 3 hours of paddling to be met by John for a ride back in the car. He assured us it was the norm to have wet seats from people who had been canoeing, and indeed he had got pretty wet himself.

After a very sociable drive back to Koriniti it was back in the campervan for the twisty and, at times, dusty journey to Pipiriki where we are staying at a very basic ‘public shelter’ site ready for tomorrow’s day on the river, this time with a big engine providing the power!
Tuesday morning we were nearly ready (in good time) when Brent from ‘Spirit of The River Jet’ was knocking on the campervan door to let us know he was ready – 30 minutes ahead of plan! The sky was overcast, but were assured that it would burn off.

We were soon ready and walked down to the river to board the jet boat just after 0900.

We were joined for the trip by a family of five from Colorado so the group size was good. We then enjoyed an hour of jet boat ride through the rapids stopping off on the way to hear stories of the river and the surrounding land, giving an insight into the history of the land and the Maori people. We arrived at Mangapurua Landing where we walked for about 40 minutes (uphill) to The Bridge to Nowhere for coffee, provided by Brett along with a selection of cakes. The bridge was built as part of the project to put a roadway through which would have given much improved access for the farmers and other local trades; however the road was never built, even though the bridge was completed.

By this time the sun was out and we were all getting warm!

After coffee we walked back to the boat and then continued upstream for another hour through further rapids and deep gorges with more stories from Brent before stopping off for lunch (self catering!). On the way we met a good number of canoeists making their way downstream, including a large party of about 20 who were doing a three day journey, camping overnight at the DOC huts along the way.

The return journey after lunch was completed without further stops; with little water in the river at places and a need to keep the boat high in the water we travelled rapidly through the rapids with a few good turns long the way. We arrived back at Pipiriki early afternoon and by now the temperature was in the 30’s.

After our farewell and a quick sort out we headed on up the narrow and twisty road from Pipiriki out to Raetihi before joining Highway 4 to National Park (yes, that’s a place name). Along this road we had views of Mount Ngauruhoe, an active volcano, and the snow capped Mount Ruapehu.

From here we headed to Whakapapa where we had a wander round and spotted a nice property that would make a good second home.

From there we headed out to Papakai, through Rangipo where we joined Highway 1. We then proceeded via Turangi, shortly after which the road starts following the banks of Lake Taupo. In Motuoapa we called into our chosen campsite only to find that nobody was there and the number to ring went straight through to the fax! So, it was on up the road a few kilometres to Motutere where we are now camped overlooking Lake Taupo.

Kapiti Island and Wellington

Friday 26th November saw a ‘chill out’ day. Some washing, catch up home e-mail, have a sort out in the campervan... (Auntie) Heather was home early afternoon so went for a walk along the beach from Ngatitoa Domain along to Karehana Bay in beautifully warm sunshine. Although the wind was blowing a bit it was a warm breeze and very pleasant. The beach changes form sand to rock and back again quite quickly and there were a few people in the sea. There is an interesting mix of housing along here with some small properties mixed with ‘millionaire’ type houses.

Saturday saw a relatively early start as we had to be at Paraparaumu for just after 0830 to catch the boat to Kapiti Island. Kapiti is a predator free island 10km long and 2km wide, just 15 minutes boat ride away from the mainland where the plan is to allow the forest to re-establish following years of farming. The predator eradication programme has allowed the bird colonies to grow and the is a haven for Little Spotted Kiwis, Wekas, Kakas, Tuis, Bellbirds, New Zealand Robins and a host of other birds, many of which were in danger of extinction.

We took the first boat from Paraparaumu to Rangatira which is about two thirds of the way up the east coast of Kapiti, before switching boats for the journey to the North End. The boats held about 30 and gave a quick, smooth ride to the island.

On arrival we were given an interesting introductory talk which included the ‘island rules’, a brief history of the island, and an overview of the birds which we might see. It was then off on the Okupe Loop walk which took us up to the Western Lookout at the top of the western cliffs form which we got superb views. Along the way we had seen a variety of native birds including parrots, Wekas, New Zealand Robins and Tuis.

After a pause at the lookout we then had the second half of the walk where we had gravity on our side. Our descent included meeting up with a Weka soaking up the sun, though it did move just before we passed.

We then meandered along to lunch where there was a Weka with her chick, who she seemed to be teaching to forage.

Post lunch we had a guided walk where we learned more history of the island and its evolving topology, as well as finding out about the plant life and the way in which the forests develop over the millennia.

It was then time for the journey back to the mainland, iced coffees and back for dinner.
In the evening we went Wellington and to the top of Mount Victoria where we had good views of ‘Wellington by Night’, returning via a tour of night time Wellington.
A long and enjoyable day, helped by superb weather.....

Sunday saw another gloriously sunny day so we headed off to Zealandia, a wildlife sanctuary near Wellington. Definitely a ‘shorts, t-shirts and sun-block’ day so we took our picnic lunch with us. It was really good to meander around the protected area which has an 8km fence around which includes a ‘skirt’ into the ground 400mm deep to stop burrowing predators gaining entry. The guide map included a portfolio of wildlife that might be spotted and we did quite well against that, including some good examples of the musical Tui and a host of Kaka who were feeding.

They also have a protected research area for Tuatara which are referred to as living fossils. These chaps don’t move about quickly (unlike the birds!) and a ‘recent sightings’ board is available so they are quite readily photographed, though they are pretty well disguised!

We picnicked in the shade, walked to the top of the lookout tower, sat and watched Hihis feeding, crossed the upper dam (which formed part of Wellington’s water supply infrastructure at one time) and played bird spotting before ending our visit with iced coffee and similar drinks in the cafe.
We then had a circumnavigous trip home via the wind turbine (a tourist attraction!) which gave a different set of views of Wellington and, then, via the supermarket, to a cliff-top park area which gave great view across the bay from the opposite side to where we have been staying.

We have had a great couple of days here in Wellington with Heather and Denis. We’ll be sad to move on but all good things come to an end and tomorrow we will be back in the van and heading for Whanganui via my other aunt’s and a couple of days on the river canoeing, jet boating and walking.

Return to Wellington

Wednesday 24th November – As we approach our ferry journey back to North Island tomorrow having driven 4,500 km in South Island we are already talking about ‘when we come back’!
Already just a stone’s throw from Picton (the ferry port) we went into Richmond to explore, though that did not take long it has to be said. We then headed towards the Nelson Lakes National Park, through Brightwater and Wakefield before turning into the lanes to cut across the southern end of Mount Richmond Forest Park (beautiful cycling lanes!) before rejoining the main highway (though still like a UK ‘B’ road) to Glenhope and Kawatiri before swinging left at Gowan Bridge to Lake Rotoroa. Just before the lake we were surprised to find a small backpackers lodge advertising ‘Devonshire Teas and Coffees’, so in we went for coffee, enjoying this in beautiful sunshine in the courtyard chatting to one of the owners who had emigrated from Plymouth 40 years ago....

It was then a short trip to the beautiful Lake Rotoroa where we enjoyed a ‘country walk’ and the accompanying views of the lake.

We then retraced our route back to Kawatiri, this time turning east picking up the Buller River to Saint Arnaud and Lake Rotoiti (another beautiful lake!) where we had lunch and were joined by a group of sparrows and a few ducks all scrounging for crumbs.

We then headed north-east towards Blenheim finding the straightest road to date on South Island! With mountains both sides and the road following the path of the Wairau River it was a pleasant journey and we were soon in Blenhein where we had a mini-tour of the town with its very pleasant river frontage and a good collection of shops.

Out of Blenheim we took a nice little short cut which again turned into a twisty and unsealed road cutting through the hills before joining Highway 6 to Havelock where one of us indulged in iced coffee (here it is 95% ice cream!), both shared some strudel, and the non-iced coffee person had coffee. The diet will start soon! (Guessing games allowed!)

We then picked up Queen Charlotte Drive , admiring the views across the bays.

Along this road we came to Linkwater where we were due to camp at Smiths Farm Holiday Park. On arrival we were advised of the animals which included ducks, sheep, a goat, steers and heifers. We were also told of the walk to the waterfall which included a section where glow worms could be seen after dusk.

So, our lazy evening plans were changed! A cup of tea then off for a daylight walk to see the waterfall and check out the walkway for later.

We were somewhat delayed on this walk as the heifers were incredibly sociable.

And this chap was evading becoming beef by refusing to let his horns be removed!

Then it was dinner before a return trip up the rather tricky walkway in the fading light to be in place for the glow worms. We then had the most fantastic walk back, punctuated by stops to look at the masses of glow worms – amazing!

A late night.... but well worth it and we both slept like logs.

Thursday we had a leisurely start and completed our journey along the Queen Charlotte Drive, dipping in and out of the bays and enjoying incredible views of Queen Charlotte Sound. We arrived in Picton late morning and wandered around the town centre before having fish and chips for lunch....

It was then on to the ferry for another smooth crossing. We had sailed out on the Interislander but our return was with Bluebridge (part of the campervan deal). The Bluebridge boats give the appearance of being more commercial transport oriented and the same external viewing that we enjoyed on the outward bound journey was not available; however there was some outside viewing and Mark took advantage of that for some of the crossing.

Our timing was impeccable in Wellington as we were perfectly timed for joining the rush hour! Once we escaped the main city though the traffic rapidly thinned and with just one diversion (=error!) we found our way back to my Auntie’s place where it was rather like returning home!

We now have a chill out day on Friday and then the weekend here before we move on to explore North Island – off to Kapiti Island (a predator free wild life sanctuary) on Saturday with Heather (my auntie) and Denis and on Sunday I don’t think we have anything planned yet....

Abel Tasman - Seals, Bays and Bridges

Tuesday 23rd November – the last part of our South Island tour has seen considerable adjustment from the original schedule, though the Picton Ferry on Thursday will bring us back in line for those who saw the original ‘master plan’. It was always expected that we would vary things according to what we found, with just a handful of absolutely fixed dates where we had booked things well in advance; though even those have been adjustable, as we found out at Doubtful Sound. That said, the last few days have been very much ‘do as we please’ and as such we spent most of today at the Abel Tasman National Park.
After early morning rain (stopped before we got up) we arrived at Kaiteriteri well before 10 and got checked in with the water taxi (not without going to the wrong company’s booth first! She was very polite.... ) and then went for a wander along the beach where we would board at about 1030.

The water taxi took us north past Kaka Island, along the bays and in to get views of Split Apple Rock.

We dropped a couple off at Coquille Bay who were planning to walk into the park, camp overnight, and be picked up towards the top of the park tomorrow. We then visited Adele Island where there were seals playing in the water, as well as one asleep on the rocks. It was then on to Anchorage Bay and Torrent Bay (where we were advised re pick-up point for later “and don’t be late”...) and so, on to Bark Bay where we were dropped off just before 11.30.

We were due to walk back to Torrent Bay and had been advised that our pick up two hours later would mean that we “had to keep walking”. The walk itself was along a reasonably surfaced path with only a few places where it deteriorated into a muddy mess, however it did rather replicate some of the terrain of yesterday’s drive with the path zigzagging up and down the hillside, cutting across gullies via a range of bridges including quite a long and wobbly suspension bridge.

One climb in particular was sufficiently steep and long to necessitate a refreshment pause part way up. We saw a number of others who were also finding the going tough and were bemused to note that the brochure described it as ‘comfortable’ walking.

The views of the lagoons and bays was well worth the effort, with the sun highlighting the beautiful colouring of the water.

As we crested what turned out to be the final climb we had a spectacular view of the bay ahead, though it did not look like the bay we had seen from the boat we realised that our persepctive was quite different. As we descended we came across the sign assuring us that it was indeed Torrent Bay and we had reached it in just over half of the ‘brochure’ time – we could have dawdled!

We took a stroll along the beach and then sat a while to wait for the taxi. Its due time of 13.35 came and went but no boat.... eventually it arrived 15 minutes late – it was not a problem to us, but it always gets a bit concerning that we might have messed up!

We then had the boat ride back to Kaiteriteri, picking up other passengers at anchorage bay en route. It was then a late lunch and pootle to Richmond via the scenic route where we checked in to a campsite relatively early (to compensate for yesterday’s late finish!).

Laundry done, showered and sitting in the sunshine writing up the Blog by 1800!

Farewell Spit (top of South Island)

Monday 22nd November – After spending a pleasant hour first thing in range of the wireless internet connection at ‘Old McDonald’s’ we pottered off to re-find the highway and head further north, the target being to visit the most northerly part of South Island at Cape Farewell and the Farewell Spit. If you look at a map of South Island you will see at the top a piece of land that looks something like a birds head, with a long bill suitable for foraging in the sand; that ‘bill’ is farewell spit.

We headed through Upper Takaka and started the long and twisty climb of Takaka Hill, allegedly the ‘most bendy’ hill in New Zealand. This comprised hairpin bend after hairpin bend (apparently over 60), it actually being physically tiring on the shoulders! We paused partway up at Hawkes Lookout which gave incredible views of Tasman Bay and gave some idea of the height gained. We also met up with a couple from Essex who we had met a couple of time previously. We have found that this tends to happen where paths are shared for a while and you keep meeting the same people for a few days until paths again go different ways.

We then had a slightly less twisty descent into Takaka where we had coffee and a wander around and then continued to the Waikoropupu Springs, which are apparently the largest freshwater springs in New Zealand and produce the world’s clearest water.

The walk to the springs was through woodland which demonstrated the various stages of woodland recovery following destruction by fire and included some good examples of tree and ground ferns as well as the various stages of tree development.

We then continued through Ferntown, Pakawau and Port Puponga to Farewell Spit. Here we parked up and walked most of the way along the inner side of the spit (no cars allowed!), walking for about 1hr 20mins.

The walk was along a sandy beach which was covered at the shoreline with broken shells making much of the walk quite crunchy!

At the far-point of our walk we climbed the sand dunes until we could see the rich blue of the Tasman Sea. We then headed back for cold drinks at the cafe (no ice creams today, though it was warm enough!) before heading to Collingwood (not much there) and back to Takaka where we topped up on supplies.

We then took a ‘shortcut’ that Heather had identified which started off as a straight, well surfaced road before becoming a single lane rough and unsealed track that clung to the hillside as it wound its way along the side of the hills. Fun stuff, but a bit tricky in places!

We then climbed back over Takaka Hill along with the challenging descent and then to Motueka where we found a campsite. Here we were advised that as ‘top 10’ members (we joined as it gave us discounts on their campsites) we were entitled to a free spa bath, so that got added to our schedule ahead of dinner. We also booked on to an Abel Tasman ‘Seals, Bridges and Walk’ trip for the morning, but opted for the 1030 start (30 minutes drive away) rather than the 0900 one!

Journey to Abel Tasman

I hope that regular readers noted that there were two postings uploaded when I was last on line as we’d not had access for a few days.... (we’d hate you to miss one!).

Sunday 21st November started grey and showery but we stuck to the plan (version goodness knows what, date 20th November late pm!) and headed a little further west from Carters Beach to the wonderfully named Cape Foulwind Seal Colony.

It was a short walk to view the seals with waterproofs and woolly hats being needed. The path meandered round the head giving good views of the stormy Tasman Sea and then of the seal colony. There was quite a bit of activity with some youngsters clearly being put in place by their parents. Can you spot the seals? (The ‘Number Spotted’ competition can be entered by posting your answer via a ‘comment’!)

After about half an hour’s seal watching we walked back to what was now becoming a busy car park and headed back to visit Westport. We noted a number of bikes on cars here and wondered what was going on as they were clearly racing machines.

Having drifted through Westport to the quay we headed out to pick up Route 6, picking up the Buller River. The road follows the river, twisting and turning, dipping up and down as the road follows the contour of the land while the river follows the gorge that it has carved over time.

Along this road we were passed by a number of cars with bikes on racks, and passed a tandem too – the time of day seemed too early for the return from a race and a bit late for people meeting up to ride somewhere. Further along we stopped for coffee at a bar which was well populated by cyclists and the tandem caught us up. It turned out that the previous day there had been a 160km Source to Sea race along the road that follows the Buller River finishing in Westport and these people were now heading back – including the tandem pair who had won their category in 4hr 15mins and were now returning at a more leisurely pace!

While at the cafe we also watched some kayakers on the river, these were finishing their morning race which had been of about 3 hours duration (there was much awe at a guy who finished in 2hr 45). All this activity made me feel lazy!

By this time it was sunny and warm, the grey wet stuff having been left behind on the west coast.
We continued our scenic drive through Lyell shortly after which we met up with a swarm of bees flying along the road towards us – some hit the windscreen but hopefully little damage was done – certainly one flew off the wiper quite promptly and we were not going fast.

At Kawatiri we swung north and stopped for lunch at the Kawatiri ‘historic’ railway. This was due to be the railway which would link Nelson with the south, but with various funding issues, the war, and the development of road transport the final link was never completed. However there is now a pleasant walk along part of the railway route and back via woodland and we used this for some gentle exercise post-lunch.

It was then on through the Golden Downs Forest, stopping at Tapawera for ice creams and a cup of tea (it was now very warm and sunny!), through Woodstock and Motueka where we met up with the northern coast of South Island just short of Abel Tasman National Park.

By this time Heather had identified a campsite for the night – Old McDonald’s, which promised sheep, llamas, alpacas, Kunekune pigs and deer. Getting to this entailed an interesting journey along a narrow twisty lane to Kaiteriteri which appears to be something of the Riviera of South Island with golden sand, rich boys’ boats, kayaks, sunbathers, swimmers, and a water taxi.

The road then got narrower and twistyer(?) with incredibly tight bends, a long drop on one side and a sheer rock face on the other as we crossed from one bay to the next. We then arrived in Marahau (which was similar to Kaiteriteri but not quite as ‘classy’) which we drove through to find our campsite at the end of a fairly long drive through woodland. It was almost all it promised to be, though the pigs are no longer in residence. We got parked up and were having a cuppa when a single duck turned up to say hello; shortly afterwards it made a few squeaking noises and another adult duck returned, along with four ducklings who are clearly very used to human beings!

There are fuchsias in flower around our plot, along with grapefruit trees in flower and fruit, and what appears to be an orange tree also in fruit and flower, this latter one giving a lovely scent.

After our tea we took a stroll around the site, though the grounds are huge so we only covered a small part. We did however see llama, alpacas, sheep, cows, chickens and a few more (less tame) ducks, as well as the usual bird life.