Whanganui River

Monday 29th we had another adjustment to our plan and drove to Whanganui as we had arranged to meet my other auntie there. The majority of the trip was on the main highway (little choice) so good progress was made. We arrived at Whanganui in good time so we headed a short way up the Whanganui River Road to the first view point and stood just where my dad must have stood some 20 years earlier when he took the picture of the Whanganui river valley that adorns his wall; one of those ‘strange’ moments when a tingle runs down your spine.

We then headed back to my Auntie Anne’s where we also met up with my cousin’s children and husband. Unfortunately my cousin Nikki was away on business, ironically in Wellington where we had just come from!

We had a pleasant evening including a tour of Whanganui and dinner with Anne and the children. Everybody had reasonably early starts the next day (school, work, us going canoeing) so nobody was keen to be up too late!

Tuesday saw us away by 0830 complete with packed lunch ready for our trip on the river. We followed our route of the previous day and then headed on up the Whanganui River Road through Atene, noting the board showing the river level in 1998, which was well above the road itself, and on to Koriniti to The Flying Fox where we were to join the river.

The Flying Fox is effectively a cable car which runs across the river to the house out of which the boating is run. Heather was not too keen on the concept when she saw it spanned 100ft above the river, but reality was far better than expectation and we crossed smoothly and sedately across the river to by met by our host John and his very friendly dog.

We had a chat and then it was down to the serious business of coffee and homemade blueberry muffins before the safety chat and discussion about the route and how to approach the ‘rapids’.
We then sorted our kit into waterproof bags and wandered down to the river where there was a quick paddling demonstration before ‘feet wet’ time and into the double kayak (we had originally planned on the Indian Canoe, but with a promised rising breeze John had decided against this).
We then had great fun paddling down river in glorious sunshine and rising temperatures (it probably made 30+) including one grounding, which entailed Mark getting out to refloat the boat, some very fast and exhilarating bits of water through the rocks, and several occasions where the water was turbulent enough to result in us getting water over the gunwhales and into the boat!

We stopped for lunch on a ‘beach’ and got partly dried out, though I’m not sure why we worried about the drying out bit! We provided the food but John had provided the making of fresh coffee compete with ‘plunger’ and lunch was very relaxed sitting in the sunshine, during which John appeared on the opposite bank and we had a quick chat by two-way radio.

After lunch we headed on through more rapids and presently John came and found us in his Jet Boat which he was testing out after some work, and made flattering remarks about our style, but then we were paying him for the privilege so we’d expect him to make such comments!
It was then onto our final end point after 3 hours of paddling to be met by John for a ride back in the car. He assured us it was the norm to have wet seats from people who had been canoeing, and indeed he had got pretty wet himself.

After a very sociable drive back to Koriniti it was back in the campervan for the twisty and, at times, dusty journey to Pipiriki where we are staying at a very basic ‘public shelter’ site ready for tomorrow’s day on the river, this time with a big engine providing the power!
Tuesday morning we were nearly ready (in good time) when Brent from ‘Spirit of The River Jet’ was knocking on the campervan door to let us know he was ready – 30 minutes ahead of plan! The sky was overcast, but were assured that it would burn off.

We were soon ready and walked down to the river to board the jet boat just after 0900.

We were joined for the trip by a family of five from Colorado so the group size was good. We then enjoyed an hour of jet boat ride through the rapids stopping off on the way to hear stories of the river and the surrounding land, giving an insight into the history of the land and the Maori people. We arrived at Mangapurua Landing where we walked for about 40 minutes (uphill) to The Bridge to Nowhere for coffee, provided by Brett along with a selection of cakes. The bridge was built as part of the project to put a roadway through which would have given much improved access for the farmers and other local trades; however the road was never built, even though the bridge was completed.

By this time the sun was out and we were all getting warm!

After coffee we walked back to the boat and then continued upstream for another hour through further rapids and deep gorges with more stories from Brent before stopping off for lunch (self catering!). On the way we met a good number of canoeists making their way downstream, including a large party of about 20 who were doing a three day journey, camping overnight at the DOC huts along the way.

The return journey after lunch was completed without further stops; with little water in the river at places and a need to keep the boat high in the water we travelled rapidly through the rapids with a few good turns long the way. We arrived back at Pipiriki early afternoon and by now the temperature was in the 30’s.

After our farewell and a quick sort out we headed on up the narrow and twisty road from Pipiriki out to Raetihi before joining Highway 4 to National Park (yes, that’s a place name). Along this road we had views of Mount Ngauruhoe, an active volcano, and the snow capped Mount Ruapehu.

From here we headed to Whakapapa where we had a wander round and spotted a nice property that would make a good second home.

From there we headed out to Papakai, through Rangipo where we joined Highway 1. We then proceeded via Turangi, shortly after which the road starts following the banks of Lake Taupo. In Motuoapa we called into our chosen campsite only to find that nobody was there and the number to ring went straight through to the fax! So, it was on up the road a few kilometres to Motutere where we are now camped overlooking Lake Taupo.