Manapouri and Fiordland

Sunday 7th November: A damp start to the day as we headed north out of Invercargill before turning north-west at Winton proceeding through Nightcaps where we got glimpses of blue sky and on to Ohai where we had sightings of snow peaked mountains breaking through the cloud base. We then cut through some minor lanes (unsealed – lots of loose gravel!) to join the ‘scenic route’ to Manapouri which gave us full views of the mountains forming the Fiordland National Park. We headed north and were in Manapouri for lunchtime so we checked in to the campsite before taking a walk along the beach and through coastal woodland to Pearl Harbour (!) where we called in to the Real Journeys office. The lady at the campsite had suggested changing our pick-up point for our Doubtful Sound cruise to the campsite rather than Te Anau and reflecting on this we spoke to the very helpful girl in the Real Journeys office who changed the pick-up point, refunded the difference in price (in cash!), and moved our cruise forward 24 hours as this fitted better with our plans giving us two clear days post the Doubtful Sound trip to explore the Milford Sound Road.

The second half of our walk included a stop for cooling drinks (one of us sampling another NZ beer!) and a meander along the upper coastal path back to the campsite.
After dinner we took the short walk to the beach to watch the sun disappear behind the mountains in a sea of crimson as a few small birds fed off the sand flies and the gulls soared overhead across the lake. Perfect.

A leisurely start the next day as we had a pick-up at 11.55 for our overnight cruise on Doubtful Sound, so before that we took a walk away from Manapouri (ie in the opposite direction to yesterday’s walk) , dropped down to the beach and just sat watching the water and admiring the scenery. It was then back for our pick up by bus which took us back to Pearl Harbour where we boarded Realjourneys’ catamaran to cross the island studded Lake Manapouri. This was a 50 minute journey to the (hydro) power station visitor centre where we switched to a coach to complete the 30 minute crossing over Wilmot Pass to Deep Cove. As we descended Wilmot Pass we got our first glimpses of the stunning Doubtful Sound and very soon we were at Deep Cove Wharf and boarding the Navigator, a vessel which accommodates 70 passengers but on this occasion would have just under 50.

The scenery around the fiords is absolutely stunning, and while we were pleased to be blessed with another sunny day, the waterfalls were (we were assured) not at their best as there had been no rain for a few days. We cruised into a couple of the arms before finding a quiet area in Crooked Arm for some ‘activities’. Mark went kayaking with about 20 others while Heather joined a group in one of the small tender craft. This moves you much closer to the surface of the water and enables you to get really close to the sheer rock faces when the great height and detail of the rock formation can be really appreciated. We both managed to stay dry and elected not to join the small group who went swimming; 430 metres gives a new meaning to ‘the deep end’!

After this and some delicious soup we cruised on to the end of the Sound and out into the Tasman Sea where we got pretty close to a colony of Fur Seals, followed by the sighting of a small number of Fiordland Crested Penguins on the rocks. We also saw a number of Shags, but they are no longer a novelty!

It was then time to head back up the Sound and it was soon dinner time (and an excellent dinner it was too). At dessert time, Heather and another lady were each presented with a slice of chocolate mud pie with two candles on it and we all sang ‘Happy Birthday’, even though Heather’s was a little early. After dinner there was a short and informative presentation on the history of the Fiords and the local wildlife.

Next morning (Happy Birthday Heather!) we were half dressed when the PA announced that there were Bottlenose Dolphins at the bow, so it was a quick pulling on of the rest of our clothes and out to the bow to watch three of these chaps playing in the bow wave – what an experience! It was then breakfast time before heading into Hall Arm where we sighted a couple of blue penguins swimming and jumping alongside us for about 10 minutes. At the end of the arm the boat was silenced – everything turned off – and we all remained silent for five minutes and just listened to nature, something we rarely get chance to do at home without hearing traffic, an aircraft, or somebody on a mobile phone!

It was then time to cruise back to Deep Cove, retrace our steps over Wilmot Pass and the boat trip across Lake Manapouri to end what really was an awesome experience; and I think that word has been used absolutely correctly in this case, unlike we hear so often.

So, Tuesday afternoon and a quick replenishment of supplies in Te Anau before heading along the Milford Sound road. There are many walks along this road but we decided to do most on the way back, just stopping off three times en route for Milford. At one of these stops we were harassed by a Kea, a type of mountain parrot which are adept at stealing anything they can and then wrecking it! We admired it and escaped mostly unscathed.....

We had originally planned to stop part way along for our overnight based on dire warnings of how tricky this road is; however there was little traffic and conditions were good, though the descent after the Homer Tunnel is rather twisty and steep.

We arrived at the campsite in Milford to find just two spaces left, the alternative being a 40km trip back to the next nearest campsite. So, we booked in and then drove to the Wharf at Milford Sound and were somewhat taken aback to find that is all there is! One wharf, four or five cruise companies, a few walking tracks.... We looked at the available cruises though most offices were not staffed – prices were not too ridiculous (we had not planned to cruise on Milford Sound) but we had noted a special offer at the campsite so returned there. The saving has about paid for the campsite fees and we’re now booked on the 0850 ‘small boat’ cruise for tomorrow morning!

Wednesday 10th November. A reasonably early start as we needed an 0815 departure to ensure we were at Milford Sound Wharf at the appropriate time. We had heard overnight rain but by the time we were up it was more showery, and there was not much wind. We were soon at the wharf and aboard the Mitre Peak II with a few other people (24 of us in total). Milford Sound is much more compact (and smaller!) than Doubtful Sound, with higher mountains, less depth and, especially following the rain, more waterfalls, several of which the boat put its bow under, giving people the option of a shower if they chose to do so. We cruised under the renowned Mitre Peak (1683m), passed Copper Point where a couple of seals were spotted swimming and headed towards the Tasman Sea. On the way we also sighted a couple of Fiordland Crested Penguins on the rocks who were soon joined by another four. We then circled out at sea, which was a bit bouncy in a small boat, to return into the Fiord passing Dale Point and Stirling Falls (four times the height of Niagara, but not as much water). We then came across a colony of young male fur seals who were frolicking in the water. We returned after just over two hours having circumnavigated the whole fiord, which gives some sort of comparison to Doubtful Sound which we had journeyed around for about 8 hours travel time without covering all of it.

As it was now just turned 11.00 we headed a short way back towards Te Anau and found a pull in for coffee and then on to try out a few of the shorter walks. The first of these was the Chasm where water runs in torrents in a deep trench in the rocks; then we took the Lower Hollyford Road, an unsealed road, to Gunns Camp and on to Moraine Creek which was crossed by an amazingly narrow and wobbly suspension bridge! Heather wasn’t too keen on this but I did complete the crossing (and the return one) managing to get it oscillating nicely!

We then went on a bit further walking for about 15 minutes up a reasonable gradient to the Humboldt Falls. These receive few visitors as they are 17km away from the main road and the road ends at the start of the Hollyford Track which gives options of 3hr and 6hr walks (one of which is “suitable only for experienced trampers”) and not much else!

It was then time to return to the proper road, afternoon tea (in the campervan!) at Knobs Flat and so back to Te Anau where we booked in to the campsite. We decided on a walk before dinner and wandered in to town. While there we met up with some people from Michigan who we had become friendly with on the Doubtful Sound cruise, not least because one of them was the lady who also had a birthday while on that trip. We got chatting and ended up having dinner together, so tonight the Jones chef got a night off!