Kapiti Island and Wellington

Friday 26th November saw a ‘chill out’ day. Some washing, catch up home e-mail, have a sort out in the campervan... (Auntie) Heather was home early afternoon so went for a walk along the beach from Ngatitoa Domain along to Karehana Bay in beautifully warm sunshine. Although the wind was blowing a bit it was a warm breeze and very pleasant. The beach changes form sand to rock and back again quite quickly and there were a few people in the sea. There is an interesting mix of housing along here with some small properties mixed with ‘millionaire’ type houses.

Saturday saw a relatively early start as we had to be at Paraparaumu for just after 0830 to catch the boat to Kapiti Island. Kapiti is a predator free island 10km long and 2km wide, just 15 minutes boat ride away from the mainland where the plan is to allow the forest to re-establish following years of farming. The predator eradication programme has allowed the bird colonies to grow and the is a haven for Little Spotted Kiwis, Wekas, Kakas, Tuis, Bellbirds, New Zealand Robins and a host of other birds, many of which were in danger of extinction.

We took the first boat from Paraparaumu to Rangatira which is about two thirds of the way up the east coast of Kapiti, before switching boats for the journey to the North End. The boats held about 30 and gave a quick, smooth ride to the island.

On arrival we were given an interesting introductory talk which included the ‘island rules’, a brief history of the island, and an overview of the birds which we might see. It was then off on the Okupe Loop walk which took us up to the Western Lookout at the top of the western cliffs form which we got superb views. Along the way we had seen a variety of native birds including parrots, Wekas, New Zealand Robins and Tuis.

After a pause at the lookout we then had the second half of the walk where we had gravity on our side. Our descent included meeting up with a Weka soaking up the sun, though it did move just before we passed.

We then meandered along to lunch where there was a Weka with her chick, who she seemed to be teaching to forage.

Post lunch we had a guided walk where we learned more history of the island and its evolving topology, as well as finding out about the plant life and the way in which the forests develop over the millennia.

It was then time for the journey back to the mainland, iced coffees and back for dinner.
In the evening we went Wellington and to the top of Mount Victoria where we had good views of ‘Wellington by Night’, returning via a tour of night time Wellington.
A long and enjoyable day, helped by superb weather.....

Sunday saw another gloriously sunny day so we headed off to Zealandia, a wildlife sanctuary near Wellington. Definitely a ‘shorts, t-shirts and sun-block’ day so we took our picnic lunch with us. It was really good to meander around the protected area which has an 8km fence around which includes a ‘skirt’ into the ground 400mm deep to stop burrowing predators gaining entry. The guide map included a portfolio of wildlife that might be spotted and we did quite well against that, including some good examples of the musical Tui and a host of Kaka who were feeding.

They also have a protected research area for Tuatara which are referred to as living fossils. These chaps don’t move about quickly (unlike the birds!) and a ‘recent sightings’ board is available so they are quite readily photographed, though they are pretty well disguised!

We picnicked in the shade, walked to the top of the lookout tower, sat and watched Hihis feeding, crossed the upper dam (which formed part of Wellington’s water supply infrastructure at one time) and played bird spotting before ending our visit with iced coffee and similar drinks in the cafe.
We then had a circumnavigous trip home via the wind turbine (a tourist attraction!) which gave a different set of views of Wellington and, then, via the supermarket, to a cliff-top park area which gave great view across the bay from the opposite side to where we have been staying.

We have had a great couple of days here in Wellington with Heather and Denis. We’ll be sad to move on but all good things come to an end and tomorrow we will be back in the van and heading for Whanganui via my other aunt’s and a couple of days on the river canoeing, jet boating and walking.

Return to Wellington

Wednesday 24th November – As we approach our ferry journey back to North Island tomorrow having driven 4,500 km in South Island we are already talking about ‘when we come back’!
Already just a stone’s throw from Picton (the ferry port) we went into Richmond to explore, though that did not take long it has to be said. We then headed towards the Nelson Lakes National Park, through Brightwater and Wakefield before turning into the lanes to cut across the southern end of Mount Richmond Forest Park (beautiful cycling lanes!) before rejoining the main highway (though still like a UK ‘B’ road) to Glenhope and Kawatiri before swinging left at Gowan Bridge to Lake Rotoroa. Just before the lake we were surprised to find a small backpackers lodge advertising ‘Devonshire Teas and Coffees’, so in we went for coffee, enjoying this in beautiful sunshine in the courtyard chatting to one of the owners who had emigrated from Plymouth 40 years ago....

It was then a short trip to the beautiful Lake Rotoroa where we enjoyed a ‘country walk’ and the accompanying views of the lake.

We then retraced our route back to Kawatiri, this time turning east picking up the Buller River to Saint Arnaud and Lake Rotoiti (another beautiful lake!) where we had lunch and were joined by a group of sparrows and a few ducks all scrounging for crumbs.

We then headed north-east towards Blenheim finding the straightest road to date on South Island! With mountains both sides and the road following the path of the Wairau River it was a pleasant journey and we were soon in Blenhein where we had a mini-tour of the town with its very pleasant river frontage and a good collection of shops.

Out of Blenheim we took a nice little short cut which again turned into a twisty and unsealed road cutting through the hills before joining Highway 6 to Havelock where one of us indulged in iced coffee (here it is 95% ice cream!), both shared some strudel, and the non-iced coffee person had coffee. The diet will start soon! (Guessing games allowed!)

We then picked up Queen Charlotte Drive , admiring the views across the bays.

Along this road we came to Linkwater where we were due to camp at Smiths Farm Holiday Park. On arrival we were advised of the animals which included ducks, sheep, a goat, steers and heifers. We were also told of the walk to the waterfall which included a section where glow worms could be seen after dusk.

So, our lazy evening plans were changed! A cup of tea then off for a daylight walk to see the waterfall and check out the walkway for later.

We were somewhat delayed on this walk as the heifers were incredibly sociable.

And this chap was evading becoming beef by refusing to let his horns be removed!

Then it was dinner before a return trip up the rather tricky walkway in the fading light to be in place for the glow worms. We then had the most fantastic walk back, punctuated by stops to look at the masses of glow worms – amazing!

A late night.... but well worth it and we both slept like logs.

Thursday we had a leisurely start and completed our journey along the Queen Charlotte Drive, dipping in and out of the bays and enjoying incredible views of Queen Charlotte Sound. We arrived in Picton late morning and wandered around the town centre before having fish and chips for lunch....

It was then on to the ferry for another smooth crossing. We had sailed out on the Interislander but our return was with Bluebridge (part of the campervan deal). The Bluebridge boats give the appearance of being more commercial transport oriented and the same external viewing that we enjoyed on the outward bound journey was not available; however there was some outside viewing and Mark took advantage of that for some of the crossing.

Our timing was impeccable in Wellington as we were perfectly timed for joining the rush hour! Once we escaped the main city though the traffic rapidly thinned and with just one diversion (=error!) we found our way back to my Auntie’s place where it was rather like returning home!

We now have a chill out day on Friday and then the weekend here before we move on to explore North Island – off to Kapiti Island (a predator free wild life sanctuary) on Saturday with Heather (my auntie) and Denis and on Sunday I don’t think we have anything planned yet....

Abel Tasman - Seals, Bays and Bridges

Tuesday 23rd November – the last part of our South Island tour has seen considerable adjustment from the original schedule, though the Picton Ferry on Thursday will bring us back in line for those who saw the original ‘master plan’. It was always expected that we would vary things according to what we found, with just a handful of absolutely fixed dates where we had booked things well in advance; though even those have been adjustable, as we found out at Doubtful Sound. That said, the last few days have been very much ‘do as we please’ and as such we spent most of today at the Abel Tasman National Park.
After early morning rain (stopped before we got up) we arrived at Kaiteriteri well before 10 and got checked in with the water taxi (not without going to the wrong company’s booth first! She was very polite.... ) and then went for a wander along the beach where we would board at about 1030.

The water taxi took us north past Kaka Island, along the bays and in to get views of Split Apple Rock.

We dropped a couple off at Coquille Bay who were planning to walk into the park, camp overnight, and be picked up towards the top of the park tomorrow. We then visited Adele Island where there were seals playing in the water, as well as one asleep on the rocks. It was then on to Anchorage Bay and Torrent Bay (where we were advised re pick-up point for later “and don’t be late”...) and so, on to Bark Bay where we were dropped off just before 11.30.

We were due to walk back to Torrent Bay and had been advised that our pick up two hours later would mean that we “had to keep walking”. The walk itself was along a reasonably surfaced path with only a few places where it deteriorated into a muddy mess, however it did rather replicate some of the terrain of yesterday’s drive with the path zigzagging up and down the hillside, cutting across gullies via a range of bridges including quite a long and wobbly suspension bridge.

One climb in particular was sufficiently steep and long to necessitate a refreshment pause part way up. We saw a number of others who were also finding the going tough and were bemused to note that the brochure described it as ‘comfortable’ walking.

The views of the lagoons and bays was well worth the effort, with the sun highlighting the beautiful colouring of the water.

As we crested what turned out to be the final climb we had a spectacular view of the bay ahead, though it did not look like the bay we had seen from the boat we realised that our persepctive was quite different. As we descended we came across the sign assuring us that it was indeed Torrent Bay and we had reached it in just over half of the ‘brochure’ time – we could have dawdled!

We took a stroll along the beach and then sat a while to wait for the taxi. Its due time of 13.35 came and went but no boat.... eventually it arrived 15 minutes late – it was not a problem to us, but it always gets a bit concerning that we might have messed up!

We then had the boat ride back to Kaiteriteri, picking up other passengers at anchorage bay en route. It was then a late lunch and pootle to Richmond via the scenic route where we checked in to a campsite relatively early (to compensate for yesterday’s late finish!).

Laundry done, showered and sitting in the sunshine writing up the Blog by 1800!

Farewell Spit (top of South Island)

Monday 22nd November – After spending a pleasant hour first thing in range of the wireless internet connection at ‘Old McDonald’s’ we pottered off to re-find the highway and head further north, the target being to visit the most northerly part of South Island at Cape Farewell and the Farewell Spit. If you look at a map of South Island you will see at the top a piece of land that looks something like a birds head, with a long bill suitable for foraging in the sand; that ‘bill’ is farewell spit.

We headed through Upper Takaka and started the long and twisty climb of Takaka Hill, allegedly the ‘most bendy’ hill in New Zealand. This comprised hairpin bend after hairpin bend (apparently over 60), it actually being physically tiring on the shoulders! We paused partway up at Hawkes Lookout which gave incredible views of Tasman Bay and gave some idea of the height gained. We also met up with a couple from Essex who we had met a couple of time previously. We have found that this tends to happen where paths are shared for a while and you keep meeting the same people for a few days until paths again go different ways.

We then had a slightly less twisty descent into Takaka where we had coffee and a wander around and then continued to the Waikoropupu Springs, which are apparently the largest freshwater springs in New Zealand and produce the world’s clearest water.

The walk to the springs was through woodland which demonstrated the various stages of woodland recovery following destruction by fire and included some good examples of tree and ground ferns as well as the various stages of tree development.

We then continued through Ferntown, Pakawau and Port Puponga to Farewell Spit. Here we parked up and walked most of the way along the inner side of the spit (no cars allowed!), walking for about 1hr 20mins.

The walk was along a sandy beach which was covered at the shoreline with broken shells making much of the walk quite crunchy!

At the far-point of our walk we climbed the sand dunes until we could see the rich blue of the Tasman Sea. We then headed back for cold drinks at the cafe (no ice creams today, though it was warm enough!) before heading to Collingwood (not much there) and back to Takaka where we topped up on supplies.

We then took a ‘shortcut’ that Heather had identified which started off as a straight, well surfaced road before becoming a single lane rough and unsealed track that clung to the hillside as it wound its way along the side of the hills. Fun stuff, but a bit tricky in places!

We then climbed back over Takaka Hill along with the challenging descent and then to Motueka where we found a campsite. Here we were advised that as ‘top 10’ members (we joined as it gave us discounts on their campsites) we were entitled to a free spa bath, so that got added to our schedule ahead of dinner. We also booked on to an Abel Tasman ‘Seals, Bridges and Walk’ trip for the morning, but opted for the 1030 start (30 minutes drive away) rather than the 0900 one!

Journey to Abel Tasman

I hope that regular readers noted that there were two postings uploaded when I was last on line as we’d not had access for a few days.... (we’d hate you to miss one!).

Sunday 21st November started grey and showery but we stuck to the plan (version goodness knows what, date 20th November late pm!) and headed a little further west from Carters Beach to the wonderfully named Cape Foulwind Seal Colony.

It was a short walk to view the seals with waterproofs and woolly hats being needed. The path meandered round the head giving good views of the stormy Tasman Sea and then of the seal colony. There was quite a bit of activity with some youngsters clearly being put in place by their parents. Can you spot the seals? (The ‘Number Spotted’ competition can be entered by posting your answer via a ‘comment’!)

After about half an hour’s seal watching we walked back to what was now becoming a busy car park and headed back to visit Westport. We noted a number of bikes on cars here and wondered what was going on as they were clearly racing machines.

Having drifted through Westport to the quay we headed out to pick up Route 6, picking up the Buller River. The road follows the river, twisting and turning, dipping up and down as the road follows the contour of the land while the river follows the gorge that it has carved over time.

Along this road we were passed by a number of cars with bikes on racks, and passed a tandem too – the time of day seemed too early for the return from a race and a bit late for people meeting up to ride somewhere. Further along we stopped for coffee at a bar which was well populated by cyclists and the tandem caught us up. It turned out that the previous day there had been a 160km Source to Sea race along the road that follows the Buller River finishing in Westport and these people were now heading back – including the tandem pair who had won their category in 4hr 15mins and were now returning at a more leisurely pace!

While at the cafe we also watched some kayakers on the river, these were finishing their morning race which had been of about 3 hours duration (there was much awe at a guy who finished in 2hr 45). All this activity made me feel lazy!

By this time it was sunny and warm, the grey wet stuff having been left behind on the west coast.
We continued our scenic drive through Lyell shortly after which we met up with a swarm of bees flying along the road towards us – some hit the windscreen but hopefully little damage was done – certainly one flew off the wiper quite promptly and we were not going fast.

At Kawatiri we swung north and stopped for lunch at the Kawatiri ‘historic’ railway. This was due to be the railway which would link Nelson with the south, but with various funding issues, the war, and the development of road transport the final link was never completed. However there is now a pleasant walk along part of the railway route and back via woodland and we used this for some gentle exercise post-lunch.

It was then on through the Golden Downs Forest, stopping at Tapawera for ice creams and a cup of tea (it was now very warm and sunny!), through Woodstock and Motueka where we met up with the northern coast of South Island just short of Abel Tasman National Park.

By this time Heather had identified a campsite for the night – Old McDonald’s, which promised sheep, llamas, alpacas, Kunekune pigs and deer. Getting to this entailed an interesting journey along a narrow twisty lane to Kaiteriteri which appears to be something of the Riviera of South Island with golden sand, rich boys’ boats, kayaks, sunbathers, swimmers, and a water taxi.

The road then got narrower and twistyer(?) with incredibly tight bends, a long drop on one side and a sheer rock face on the other as we crossed from one bay to the next. We then arrived in Marahau (which was similar to Kaiteriteri but not quite as ‘classy’) which we drove through to find our campsite at the end of a fairly long drive through woodland. It was almost all it promised to be, though the pigs are no longer in residence. We got parked up and were having a cuppa when a single duck turned up to say hello; shortly afterwards it made a few squeaking noises and another adult duck returned, along with four ducklings who are clearly very used to human beings!

There are fuchsias in flower around our plot, along with grapefruit trees in flower and fruit, and what appears to be an orange tree also in fruit and flower, this latter one giving a lovely scent.

After our tea we took a stroll around the site, though the grounds are huge so we only covered a small part. We did however see llama, alpacas, sheep, cows, chickens and a few more (less tame) ducks, as well as the usual bird life.

The West Coast

Saturday 20th November: woken gently by the resident Tui and Bell Bird population, accompanied by the sound of more rain. It wasn’t too bad so we went for a short walk on Gillespies Beach (see previous post) where the sea was quite stormy with plenty of spray, before retracing our route along the twisty lane through the rain forest to Highway 6, meeting with a temporary road blockage on the way.

It was clear that there would be no glacier flights today so we took the road up to Franz Joseph Glacier, but it was raining so hard that we elected not to complete the half hour walk to get ‘views’ or the 2 hour walk to reach the face, especially as we had been advised that Fox and Franz Joseph are very similar in structure.

So we headed north on Highway 6 through Whataroa, Harihari and Ross to Hokitika where we spent some time visiting the various factory shops (The Jade Factory, a local crafts co-op, The Possum Shop....). The journey had been very wet with us driving through rain when we were close to sea level, or cloud as soon as we rose a few metres. The West Coast Road plunges in and out of bays giving fabulous scenery, it being very atmospheric with the spray from the crashing sea, the rain and the low cloud. However, the views of the adjacent mountains were almost totally obscured by the cloud and rain.

We headed on north towards Greymouth, crossing the Taramakau River just after Kumara Junction via a single lane bridge which also had the railway running down the same single lane! Fortunately, no train came along as there seemed to be no formal control on the bridge.

We passed Greymouth where there had been an explosion in a coal mine the previous day with nearly 30 miners trapped. We did not stop here as we had spent a little time exploring when we visited on the Transalpine when we were based at Christchurch, but continued to Punakaiki where we visited the Pancake Rocks. These are so named as they have been built up of layers of rock over the millennia and appear something like stacks of pancakes. The weather and sea have been eroding these and some amazing formations are now present.

In the car park here there was a Weka, these are less daring than the Keas which we had seen in Fiordland and did not hang around long enough for a photograph!

Before moving on we did a map/campsite check as we needed a ‘proper’ campsite tonight and found a nice sounding site at Carters Beach near Westport, just along from a Seal Colony (trip for the morning!). We tried ringing ahead as we were later than usual but as so often there was no mobile signal, so we pressed on instead passing by Meybille Bay, Hatters Bay and Woodpecker Bay before turning inland at Charleston. We were soon skirting Westport and picked up the campsite signs. We need not have worried as there was plenty of space, and as a bonus the rain stopped before we arrived.

After dinner we went for a stroll on the beach. The sea had quietened a bit and it remained dry so we walked for a while on the grey-whack sand, finding a number of jelly fish and the usual range of washed up bits of tree that seem to occur here. As I write this I can hear the local bird population tuning up outside ready for our early call in the morning....

And here's our home.....

Journey to the West Coast....

Thursday 18th November. A short journey planned today to Wanaka, so our first detour was to look at the old gold town of Naseby which has a world class curling venue, a few gift shops, a cafe and not much else, but the drive was pleasant. We then headed out through Wedderburn, criss-crossing the rail trail and diverting to Saint Bathans, a historic centre (along with so many others) of the gold mining days. The hill at Saint Bathans has been almost totally destroyed by the gold mining as the rock was dug away, washed and searched. Where the hill was is now the ‘blue lake’ which is rich in minerals and hence is why it is blue.... only it was more of a murky grey! The remaining rock formations formed by a combination of Teutonic plate movement, the gold mining, and subsequent erosion is quite spectacular as can be seen below.





We then regained route 85 and continued to Alexandra, a large town by NZ standards but not of great note. It was then on to route 8 with a stop for lunch at the Clyde Dam (see earlier post – we’d been here before!) and across to Cromwell where we headed up the east side of Lake Dunstan while the signposted route (and most of the traffic) headed up the west side. We took a little short-cut along an unsealed road avoiding Tarras but instead encountering a single lane rather interesting bridge which had the original wooden slats showing through the tarmac in places....

We then turned west for Wanaka, our destination. We booked into our campsite and then returned to the town for a wander round and a walk by Lake Wanaka. We then took a drive along the Mount Aspiring Road passing Roys Peak and visiting Glendhu Bay, Homestead Bay, and then took a walk up to the Diamond Lake where there were more intriguing rock formations created by the glaciers.

We then returned to the campsite and booked a flight over Mount Cook and the glaciers for tomorrow, though there is a risk it may not happen due to cloud. We’ll get another chance once we’re on the west coast, but it is very weather dependant. In the evening we were joined by a sparrow who briefly hopped into the van and then later we had a family of Californian Quail feeding outside.

Friday – Grounded! The intended flight was not happening as the tops of the mountains were in cloud, and it was getting worse rather than better. An alternative flight was possibly going ahead but as that was twice the cost we opted to move on and try again from the West Coast.

We headed north out of Wanaka through Albert Town and along the shores of Lake Hawea on Highway 6. The road then kinked to switch to the shores of Lake Wanaka, all the time giving views of Mount Aspiring National Park, heavily obscured by cloud. As we progressed via the Haast Pass, Fantail Falls and passing through the impressive Haast Gate, a rocky part of the river with vast amounts of water rushing through the rocks, we needed the windscreen wipers on ‘continuous’ for the first time since leaving the UK, as we drove through the low cloud.

The road then turned west along the Haast River with Mount Aspiring on one side and the Southern Alps to the other, still shrouded in cloud.

We arrived at Haast, where there is not much beyond a few eateries and a petrol station (needed, and rather dearer than on the east coast). After a bite of lunch near the beach we picked up the West Coast road which dips in and out to the coast and back as it heads north, giving very different scenery to the east coast – lush green, almost ‘tropical rain forest’ style due to the plentiful rainfall, interspersed with sandy and rocky beaches.

Along this road we found a pull off at Lake Paringa for a brew. We sat drinking tea overlooking the lake and watching a Grebe fishing. Noting that there was some sort of struggle going on, the binoculars came out enabling us to see that he had caught a good size eel and was struggling to get it lined up for digestion! A quick flick with his head and suddenly the eel disappeared down his gullet! Our viewing was interrupted by the return of about half a dozen jet-boats which appeared to be ending a ‘boy’s day out’ type jolly! The Grebe soon scarpered....


As it was not a day for walks we pressed on to the Fox Glacier, spotting the rather small sign to the terminal ice face. The rain had almost stopped by now so we completed the journey to the face on foot, crossing glacier melt streams via stepping stones (this was the ‘official’ route!) and climbing to the end point of the walk after which you must have a guide if you are to go onto the ice itself to the unstable state of the area. The sheer size of the glacier is only really evident when you note the size of people walking on it.

On the return walk the rain got going again so it was a quick dry off at the van and then off to find the campsite that Heather had identified – 20km down a single-lane, unsealed, twisty track at Gillespies Beach with just a tap and a loo.... surprising how many others were also there! Hopefully it will top raining by the morning so that we can go for a beach walk!

The Otago Central Rail Trail

Tuesday 16th November – today saw day one of the Otago Central Rail Trail. When we planned this we got in touch with a local company in Ranfurly and asked “we have two days, what do you recommend?”. They set up bike hire and transfers to ensure we could start and finish at Ranfurly each day and do ‘the best bits’ of the trail.

We were asked to arrive at the company’s office at 8am sharp (the first challenge; we’ve not been used to early and prompt starts!), so were pleased that on awaking the overnight rain had stopped and that the wind had dried off the ground quite quickly. The brisk wind had other implications too of course, though as it turned out it would be mostly helpful, with just a few sections of cross wind to contend with.

We turned up on time and were driven to Lauder with our hire bikes (reasonable quality but with big spongy saddles – mmm....) which would give us a ride of just over 30km back to Wedderburn where we would be returned to base. Although 35km is not that far, Heather does not cycle that much and by now I was gaining unfitness rapidly.... furthermore the trail comprises loose gravel, stones and pebbles so is quite hard and slow going.

We set out at a half reasonable pace, steadily climbing and passing through the Poolburn Gorge Tunnels, one of which is over 200m long and unlit. Fortunately we had been advised to take a torch and I had a decent cycle light with me. On exiting the longest we read the notice board explaining the construction and how this could be seen as you passed through the tunnel... yes, I went back and looked.

The route does its best to follow the contours, using bridges and tunnels to minimise gradients as it passes through the Ida Valley and climbs to its highest point after Otureha at 618m.

By the time we had got this far our pace had reduced considerably as Heather’s legs were rather lacking in zest, but now it was downhill all the way back to Wedderburn; however Heather is not a fan of loose surfaces and is not the best of descenders (she tells me that she is not about to start ‘off-roading’ as her keep-fit activity!) so this was not the blessing it might have been, though it was easier on the legs!

We arrived at Wedderburn some 5 hours after leaving Lauder, though this included picture stops, coffee, and simply admiring the view. A quick call to Ranfurly Bike Hire and they were there in about 15 minutes (we had been heading back towards them) to pick Heather up as I had opted to ride the last 12km back to base. This too was steadily downhill, and with a favourable wind I gave it some welly and was back before Heather had got out of the shower.

Wednesday.... a cooler day with less wind and a decision to be made. We were due to do the 32km ride from Ranfurly to Hyde, with an optional return ride for Mark. However there was some concern that completing the ride would leave Heather ‘crocked’ for days and she had not enjoyed the surface of the trail yesterday. The decision was made that Heather would go for a shorter on-road ride while Mark got on with the Hyde and back trip, so we let the bike people know and committed to no return lift from Hyde.

Heather rode part way to Naseby along quiet sealed roads, though her right knee was nagging on the rises so she returned via another route completing about 15km before lunch. Post lunch she explored locally and then found a little circuit for some more pedalling which included what would be the final kilometres of Mark’s ride.

Mark headed off for Hyde finding the first section of the trail similar to yesterday’s, though ahead lay the Rock and Pillar mountain range, complete with vey dark clouds. The forecast had predicted ‘possible showers in the afternoon’ so there was no surprise for the first spots of rain at 11am! In the vale between the trail and the Kakanui Mountains the low cloud remained, with the mountains appearing above the bank of cloud.

The rain stopped and the trail passed by the plains which were Taieri Lake but which had been filled with the debris from the gold mining activity in the area, it being estimated that the silt is 2m deep in places. The trail then passed through Daisybank where the scenery changed as the Upper Taieri Gorge unfolded with the dramatic rock faces forming the backdrop for the Taieri River below.

The trail then passed over the Cap Burn railway bridge, through the 152m Prices Creek tunnel before the steady descent into Hyde where a hotel and cafe was open with an excellent range of sandwiches and a very welcome coffee.

A 20 minute break for lunch included catching up with a couple of people met on the trail on the previous day, and then it was time to start the return journey. The start of this was the return up that nice descent described above back to the tunnel – either a nice warm up, or a good way to finish off weary legs..... the sun was trying to shine and at last I took my fleece off and looked a bit more like a cyclist again. For a while this fooled my body, aided by the cheery greetings by those I had seen earlier who were on their way to Hyde. The scenery looked quite different heading back, helped by the lack of dark grey clouds and a bit more sun getting through.

With about 10km to go I started getting into that mode where you keep looking for the next kilometre marker, each photo break giving a short ‘refresh’ of the legs; the last 2km seemed to take an age, but then there was somebody I recognised riding the other way – Heather completing one of her circuits. A quick catch up and then it was a gentle ride back to base for a very welcome shower and cup of tea. Just over 4 hours riding ensured I had sore legs to go with my sore backside!

Dansey's Pass.... what a journey!

Monday 15th November. After our relatively late night out penguin watching, we had a lazy start today and didn’t hit the road until well after 10.00. We did not have far to travel as we were destined for Ranfurly, but we were not fully aware of what was ahead of us.

First stop was Oamaru for supplies and fuel, then we found our way through some winding lanes that sit in the corner formed by Route 83 and Route 1, taking us along the Kakanui Valley Road through Five Forks, along the severe undulations of the Crown Hill Road through Tapui and Tokarahi and so onto the Dansey’s Pass Road.

We had no idea what Dansey’s Pass was going to be like, but we did note the sign telling us it was open and could tell that it would be twisty and up and down a bit....

What we had no way of knowing was that the surface in place would be non-existent, with loose gravel in others and not much more width than the campervan with a sheer rock face on one side and a long drop to the valley bottom on the other. The sheep gave us quizzical looks before scurrying off, the cattle looked on nonchalantly, and the road soared and plunged as it cut through the mountains. We managed to find a spot to stop for lunch, and were amused by a short stretch where there was some work going on, complete with a speed limit of 30km/hr – some hope! Even better was the sign below at the end of the road works....

A measure of the journey was the two and a half hours driving time that it took us to do about 60kms!

The scenery was stunning, the van is covered in a yellow dust, and the white knuckle ride came as an f.o.c. bonus!